Reflecting on Medea – A Costume Designer’s Note

MICARI plays Medea.

This production marked a significant turning point in my career. It was the autumn of 1999, right after I left the costume studio Atelier HINODE and began working as a freelance costume designer.

Until then, when working with the Ku Na'uka Theatre Company led by director Satoshi Miyagi, I often initiated the creative process by proposing visual concepts and atmospheres.

But "Medea" was quite different.

This time, the director had a bold, fully formed vision from the outset. Although the story is rooted in Greek mythology, the setting was transformed into Meiji-era Japan. Medea herself was portrayed as a woman brought from South Korea, adding a compelling historical and political layer to the narrative.

Given this strong and specific directorial vision, I first focused on conveying the historical backdrop through the costumes. However, if I had simply pursued accuracy in historical design, something vital would have been lost.

Ku Na' uka’s theatrical method, which separates the speaking actor from the moving actor, embraces freedom of expression. And ordinary period costumes would not have been enough to resonate with that spirit.

I felt the need to weave in something a little “crazy”—an unexpected element that could shake things up.

That’s when the idea of tattoo motifs came to me.

I designed an uchikake (formal kimono robe) for Medea, adorned with hand-painted tattoo designs. These patterns were created by my art school classmate, Sachiko  Midorikawa, a talented artist whose brushwork combines elegance with unwavering strength. She also painted tattoo-inspired motifs on the jackets of Medea’s husband Jason, her father in law, and her sons. Her contribution gave the entire production a sense of quiet power and visual richness.

I’m also deeply grateful to Akiko Iwasaki, who made the costumes with great care and skill. Thanks to these two collaborators, Medea’s presence on stage became something truly beautiful and unforgettable.

The tattoo concept came to me while reading novels by Tomiko Miyao, which explore the societal roles and struggles of women in the old days in Japan. As I absorbed those stories, the image of a woman bearing tattoos—symbolizing inner determination and unspoken resistance—began to take form.

This story exudes a deep, almost turbulent energy. The tattoos, I believe, harmonized with that atmosphere in a quiet but meaningful way.

And now, many years later, in June 2025, “Medea” returns to the stage.

It will be performed by SPAC (Shizuoka Performing Arts Center) at The Coronet Theatre in London, from June 18th to 21st.

How will this tale of a Korean woman’s revenge—set in militaristic Meiji Japan—be received by audiences in London?

For those interested in modern history and cross-cultural narratives, I believe it will offer something profound and unforgettable.

I sincerely hope the London performances will be a great success.

https://www.thecoronettheatre.com/whats-on/medea/